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POSITANO: seaside paradise for painters

Positano is the most coy and aristocratic of the resorts along the Amalfi coast, almost inaccessible except by sea, where there is a small landing stage, or by the narrow, winding roadway high above the sea, where two cars may just about pass each other.
Positano is a charming village of 3700 inhabitants which lies on the Amalfi Coast between three valleys called Pertuso, Comune and Paipo. According to the tradition, Positano was founded by the inhabitants of Paestum who had fled from their homes, sacked by the invaders.

It has a small beach, very elegant haunts, exquisite hotels and everything is de-luxe or almost so. Mass tourism is banned at Positano, which cannot welcome more tourists than it does at present, for as it is they almost bump into one another of the tiny beach bounded by rock. There is no possibility of building further, and Positano is perhaps the only resort in the world that doesn't advertise.

Nowadays, this town is one of the most well-known seaside-resorts on the Amalfi Coast and it is especially popular with artists from all over the world.

They appreciate its houses, the majority white, clustering in picturesque confusion, on the seaward slope of the steep hill. Many painters, indeed, came to Positano for just a few days and stayed there for the rest of their lives.

What can You do at Positano? Nothing: but in a big way. Here people come for the sea, to meet the elect few in the private villas, to dance in the night clubs, to chat in the sun, or to walk in the narrow streets. It is a stupendous oasis of peace, where there are no motor-cars (only electric vehicles) and where life has a different rhythm, and an altogether different meaning.
In Positano it is worth visiting the so-called "Chiesa Madre" , the main church whose majolica dome is visible from any spot of Positano.

And at the sunset the fishing boats take the sea with great lanterns on the bow:
they fish anchoves and cuttle-fish. Then, the nightlife of Positano is absolutely unique and you cannot miss enjoying a good dish of fish in one of the restaurants on the beach.

But the surroundings of Positano too are very beautiful: the trip along the Amafi coast, both by sea and by coach, is a celebrated itinerary for Mediterranean tourists. In general, Sorrento, Amalfi, Positano and Ravello are the most famous: but there are other tiny fishing villages, not very easy to reach and therefore primitive, where visitors can find a hospitality that is not sophisticated, but open hearted, in the little rustic cottages. Cetara with the neighouring combe of Fuenti once the shelter of Saracen galleys; Conca dei Marini , with its deep and highly colourful off shore water; the inlet of Furore . an awful picture deep in the rocks, where the sea runs; the little beach of Marina di Praia; Vettica with its church with the majolica cupola. It is a long succession of overhanging rocks, tenacious vegetation, rock plants too, colour effects from the sea. Silence and sun, the immensity of the sea and the strong scent of flowers, are the attractions of this superb coast, which has so much yet to offer the intelligent tourist, who is tired of the worldliness and clamour of the resorts.

In addition, from this charming town it is easy to reach the other famous places of the area:
the National Road 163 takes to Sorrento on one side and Amalfi, Ravello, Vietri and Salerno on the other side.

The legend of Positano
The legend recounts, with great minuteness, that one night a Saracen sailing vessel that had stolen a precious Painting of the Madonna suddenly found itself in the midst of a furious storm off the Positano coast. The south-west wind was threatening to make the mainmast come tumbling down any minute, the fury of the sea and of the rain beset the vessel sweeping men and objects overboard. The men of the crew had abandoned their duties and were running frantically from stern to stern on the high-prowed ancient Byzantine vessel, when all of a sudden the sailors heard a mysterious voice rising above the terrifying creaking of the foremast. Out of the howling gusts of the gale, a crystalclear voice apparently born of the wind repeatedly said: “Posa, posa!” (Lay me down). The Madonna, weary of roaming the seas, was asking to be brought to rest on land. The sailors understood and decided to obey, in the hope of reaching safety and with the premonition that they were face to face with a new reality: a miracle. All of the crew, converted to the Christian faith, got down to work like slaves, some went to the helm, others strove to get landward wind to fill the canvas of the one and only square sail: but miraculously every effort was superfluous because the vessel, as if propelled by a will of its own, started gliding towards the small bay where the Madonna was laid down on the small crescent shaped beach which nowadays is a favourite haunt of families on vacation. The storm had abated and billows were gradually receding. On the water line, still black from the early morning rain, the Byzantine Madonna shone out brightly from her cedar-tree tablet where a skilful artist of distant Greece had depicted her: and there she was found at dawn by the first fishermen going out to sea. The pious inhabitants of these shores built a temple on that very site and since that day the village took the name of Positano from the “Posa, posa” uttered by its Madonna (so the legend has it, for legends, we all know, are impatient of complex Greek etymological assumptions according to which the name Positano is a corruption of Poseidon).

Positano and its bright colours.

The colourful dwellings of Positano climb up upon the sides of the mountain and seem almost to hold each other up.And at the sunset the fishing boats take the sea with great lanterns on the bow: they fish anchovies and cuttle-fish. Then, the nightlife of Positano is absolutely unique and You cannot miss enjoying a good dish of fish in one of the restaurants on the beach. From this charming town it is easy to reach also the other famous places of the area: the National Road 163 takes to Sorrento on one side and Amalfi, Ravello, Vietri and Salerno on the other side.

Photo of Positano in the evening.

The nightlife of Positano is the most beautiful moment for this small and very refined town, which is enjoyable in the best way with the moonlight. The centre is pedestrian. Nowadays, this town is one of the most well-known seaside-resorts on the Amalfi Coast and it is especially popular with artists from all over the world. They appreciate its houses, the majority white, clustering in picturesque confusion, on the seaward slope of the steep hill. Many painters, indeed, came to Positano for just a few days and stayed there for the rest of their lives.

Typical view of Positano.

Positano is one of the most famous and elegant localities on the Amalfi coast, with its houses clustering in picturesque confusion on the seaward slope of a steep hill. Positano is especially popular with artists from all over the world. The writer John Steinbeck wrote: “ Positano leaves a deep mark on those who visit it. It is a dreamland that doesn’t seem true so long as You are there, but once You have left it, its deep reality strikes You nostalgically.”

Night view of Positano that combines the features of the town.

Coast, beach and the houses clinging to the mountain-side. This small town has quite a grandiose past. As part of the Republic of Amalfi, it played an important role in the preparation of the first written collection of maritime codes that laid down the rights of seamen. But actually nowadays, what can we do there? Nothing: but in a big way. There people come for the sea, to meet the elect few in the private villas, to dance in the night clubs, to chat in the sun or to walk in the narrow streets. It is a nice oasis of peace, where there are no motor-cars and where life has a different rythm and altogether a different meaning.

A street of Positano.

Some of the features whick make Positano one of the finest places on the Amalfi coast are its social life, its colours, its perennially blue sky and its picturesque houses, which are so close to the steep slope that they appear to be helping each other to clamber up the hillside. The writer John Steinbeck wrote: “ When You happen to come across a place as beautiful as Positano, the first, instinctive reaction is to keep the discovery to yourself.”

Picturesque view of Positano.

Among Positano’s architectural features are three outer towers built for protection and five inner towers of great historical interest. Also worthy of note are the church of Santa Maria Assunta and the beautiful Roman villa. Positano also has several gardens, and all in all is to be considered one of the most interesting places for the tourist on the Amalfi coast.

Without doubt, the beauty of the Amalfi coast-line is unequalled . Positano, Amalfi and Ravello have in common the history of the sea which they overlook. A Positano legend says that one night a Saracen sailing vessel that had stolen the precious painting of the Madonna suddenly found itself in the midst of a furious storm off the Positano coast. Moreover the sailors heard a mysterious voice apparently born of the wind repeatedly said : “Posa, posa” (Lay me down). The pirates became aware of having committed a sacrilege, repented came back ashore and take back the Painting to the village, that since that day took the name of Positano from the “Posa, posa” uttered by its Madonna.

A view of the typical pathways of Positano.

Walking around the stairs or pathways of Positano is a very pleasant experience, amazing views are around every corner. In the XVI and XVII centuries Positano became a very prosperous town. Its ships sailed all the seas, trading with the countries of the near and Middle East, transporting spices and silks and the precious woods so much sought after in the West.

HOW TO REACH POSITANO

FROM ROME BY CAR:
From Rome reach the main road "A1"direction south (Napoli) and, after leaving Napoli, take the main road "A3" to Napoli - Salerno (Not Tangenziale Napoli). At Castellammare di Stabia, take the road to Sorrento. Anyway everywhere (along the motorway too) there are brown signs "Penisola Sorrentina": follow that sign. When You arrive to Piano di Sorrento (a village along the way) takes Via Cavone and follow the National Road 163 to Positano.

FROM ROME AIRPORT BY PUBLIC MEANS:
A shuttle links the Airport with the main railway station in Rome. From Rome several trains go to Naples (The trip takes approximately 2 hours). In alternative, (only during working days) from the Tiburtina train station You can take the bus of “Marozzi” company that leaves from the capital at 7:00 am and 3:00 pm: the bus takes directly to Sorrento ( Euros 15.99). In Sorrento You can board the buses operated by the "Sita" company that takes to Positano (40' min).

FROM NAPLES CAPODICHINO AIRPORT BY CAR:
From Naples Capodichino You should follow the motorway A/3 Naples-Salerno as far as the exit Castellammare di Stabia; once You are in Castellammare You follow the National Road 145 (SS 145) as far as Sorrento which is about 48 kms away from Naples. Anyway everywhere (along the motorway too) there are brown signs "Penisola Sorrentina": follow that sign. When You arrive to Piano di Sorrento (a village along the way) takes Via Cavone and follow the National Road 163 to Positano.

FROM NAPLES CAPODICHINO AIRPORT BY PUBLIC MEANS:
From Naples airport You can take a taxi or bus to the railway station at Piazza Garibaldi. At the main train station Piazza Garibaldi in Naples You will be able to board the local Circumvesuviana trains which leave for Sorrento every 20 minutes all day long. In alternative, from the Naples Capodichino Airport You can take the bus of “Curreri” company that takes directly to Sorrento with departure at 9:00 am – 11:30 am – 01:00 pm – 02:30 pm – 04:30 pm – 07:00 pm. (The trip takes approximately 1 hour). Once in Sorrento You can board the buses operated by the "Sita" company that takes to Positano (40' min).

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